Women Fit and Flare White Dress

How to Make an Embellished Choli for Navratri: Step-by-Step Guide

Navratri is the perfect time to showcase vibrant and heavily embellished ethnic outfits. A designer choli like the one in your reference image requires a combination of fine fabric, embroidery, and perfect fitting. Here’s how you can make it:

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Step 1: Selecting the Fabric

The first and most important step is fabric selection. Since Navratri outfits involve a lot of dancing and movement, you need a fabric that is both comfortable and stylish.

• Best Fabric Choices:
  • Silk (for a royal look)
  • Raw silk (stiff but elegant)
  • Velvet (if you want a luxurious feel)
  • Georgette or net (for a lightweight look with embroidery)

For the design in your reference image, a satin silk or net fabric with an inner lining will work best.

Step 2: Taking Measurements

A well-fitted choli enhances the overall look. Take accurate body measurements for:

• Bust
• Waist
• Shoulder width
• Armhole
• Choli length
• Back depth (since this design has a deep-back cut)

Pro tip: Always add ½ to 1 inch extra for stitching allowance.

Step 3: Cutting the Fabric

1. Front and Back Panels – Cut according to the measurements, keeping the deep V-shaped back as seen in the image.
2. Sleeves (if needed) – This design is sleeveless, but if you want, cut cap sleeves or elbow-length sleeves.
3. Lining Fabric – Cut an inner lining in cotton or satin for a comfortable finish.

Use tailor’s chalk to mark darts and seams to ensure a proper fit.

Step 4: Stitching the Choli

1. Start with the darts: Stitch darts on the front piece for a fitted look.
2. Attach the shoulders: Sew the front and back panels together at the shoulder seams.
3. Deep Back Cut: Fold and stitch the raw edges neatly. Add loops for tying the back strings.
4. Side seams: Join both sides while ensuring a snug fit.
5. Neckline & Armholes: Use piping or facing to give a smooth finish.

At this stage, try on the choli and make adjustments for the perfect fit.

Step 5: Embellishment and Embroidery

The beauty of this choli is in its detailed embroidery and embellishments. Here’s how to achieve the look:

1. Machine Embroidery or Handwork

• If you have access to machine embroidery, you can create the delicate patterns.
• For hand embroidery, use zari, resham (silk) thread, or gota patti work to create the motifs.

2. Mirror Work & Beads

• Small mirror pieces or sequins can be stitched in the embroidery pattern to enhance the festive look.
• Add tiny pearls or beads along the borders for a rich effect.

3. Border & Lace Detailing

• The bottom border of the choli should have gota lace, zari lace, or intricate embroidered lace to match the lehenga.
• You can also stitch a scalloped lace for a designer touch.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

• Back Strings (Dori Work): Attach a long dori (string) at the back with beautiful latkans (hanging tassels) for a traditional look.
• Press & Iron: Steam press the choli to set the embroidery and remove any wrinkles.
• Final Fitting: Wear the choli and make small adjustments if necessary.

Tips for a Professional Finish:

✔ Use interfacing inside the neckline and back for extra support.
✔ Always double-stitch seams for durability.
✔ If using net fabric, line it with satin for a smooth inner finish.
✔ Hand-embroider beads and sequins carefully to prevent them from falling off.

Final Look & Styling Suggestions

Your choli is now ready! Pair it with:

• A flared lehenga with matching embroidery
• A sheer or embroidered dupatta draped elegantly
• Statement earrings & bangles to complete the look